icon-info: Don't ask the theme for an icon it doesn't have
GtkIconTheme changed behavior from GTK3 to GTK4. Before, it would
return NULL for a non-existent icon. Now it returns a non-scallable
image-missing
icon.
But our icon info code still relies on NULL icon to set a fallback.
The documented solution to get the old behavior back is to call gtk_icon_theme_has_gicon(). Let's just do that instead.
Closes #2796 (closed)