[quartz] Work around macOS 13 not sending trackingArea events.

The root cause of #5305 (closed) seems to be that macOS 13 Ventura isn't sending tracking area notifications to the view. I tried to replicate this with a simple Xcode project and couldn't: The notifications are delivered as one would expect. Something we're doing must be breaking them, but after well over a week's worth of poking I can't find it.

This somewhat hackish work-around at least gets Gtk3 applications working on macOS 13, though not perfectly: The resize cursors appear only if one clicks in the border, and once they appear they don't go away until one moves the pointer out of the window and back in so e.g. the I-bar cursor won't appear when the pointer is in a text control.